The Second Valley- kayak Second Valley to Rapid Heads

I don’t actually remember the first time I paddled into the Second Valley. It must have been in the very late 1970’s as I have found photos of our expeditions further south at Cape Jervis in 1984. Luckily “ The Valley” viewed from the sea has  changed  little in that time. Ron Blum, long time resident of the township, published  “The history of Second Valley” in 1985 and I remember kayaking with him around that time. We both went on to paddle kayak marathons together especially the Murray 400km and Murray 200km races. Ron is still active in the Marathon Canoe Club  and a link to his achievements is here. (I was the club’s first secretary)

I have been asked several times recently about paddling the area, so it was here that I decided to start a month or so of paddling along the coastline of South Australia, hoping for some interesting photos. Second Valley on the Fleurieu Peninsula is 100km south of Adelaide, the State’s capital, and has become a regular haunt for sea kayakers and scuba divers.

Scene-near-Rapid-Bay-George-French-Angas-1847.jpgThe image above was by George French Angas in 1847 depicting local Aborigines fishing at Second Valley. Not a lot has changed as you can stand at the small jetty and easily see the features from the painting.

Our idea was to launch at Second Valley, paddle along the rugged coastline, past Rapid Bay and onto Rapid Heads where we often found New Zealand Fur Seals, Sea Lions and Dolphins.  The small beach is an easy launching spot although it can be crowded with locals cooling their heels on a hot summers day. We set off around 9am to miss the predicted scorching 43 degree heat of the day and also avoided any crowds. We call any more than 3 people a crowd !!!

Ready to launch at Second Valley beach

Ready to launch at Second Valley beach

The last of the fishing village heritage disappeared with the removal of the tumble down boat sheds from the headland in 2009, however you can still see some of the foundations and the old launching winch.

Robyn passes the remains of the old fishing sheds and launching winch

Robyn passes the remains of the old fishing sheds and launching winch

After rounding the rocks on the outer of the bay you get a view of what’s to come.  You can see Rapid Bay just a couple of kilometres away with Rapid Headland in the distance. Few people venture far around the coast so often you will have the place to yourself as we did.

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Heading towards Rapid Heads

Heading towards Rapid Heads

Not far along you come to the Second Valley sea cave. Its not huge but just big enough to get a couple of sea kayaks in there. At one time we had 6 kayaks in at once but it was very squeezy. Robyn waited at the entrance as I explored the cave, taking a couple of minutes for my eyes to adjust to the darkness. The cave entrance is easy to navigate however care should be taken when there is a SW swell evident.

Taking in the view along the rugged coastline

Taking in the view along the rugged coastline

Once in the cave it was easy to turn around and find Robyn taking a photo at the entrance.

Paddling out of the cave I found Robyn taking photos

Paddling out of the cave I found Robyn taking photos

Further on there are other small grottos to explore and lots of spectacular rock formations…….

Paddling along the ancient coastline

Paddling along the ancient coastline

 

Another fissure to explore

Another fissure to explore

 

Ian exploring one of the small grottos in the cliff

Ian exploring one of the small grottos in the cliff

…..and a couple of secluded beaches which we would visit later for a relaxing swim.

One of the many small secluded beaches

One of the many small secluded beaches

Further on you can make out the Rapid Bay jetties. The larger structure was used as a loading wharf when BHP was mining in this area. The jetty has now fallen into disrepair but is a haven for fish life. A smaller jetty was built near it for recreational fisherman and scuba divers.

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The structure also makes for some interesting photos.

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Looking towards Second Valley

Looking towards Second Valley

After passing Rapid Heads, where there is often a confused sea around the bommies, we found the seals playground. Today there were only a few New Zealand Fur Seals lolling about, but often there are also Australian Sea Lions in residence. The Pied Cormorants seems always to be here in reasonable numbers and the trick is not to disturb them lest they decide to take off in a hurry, necessitating the empyting of their bowels. Not a pretty site splatting across the deck of your kayak, or you (always wear a hat !!).

Pied Cormorants, commonly called Shags all ready for take-off

Pied Cormorants, commonly called Shags all ready for take-off

We met up with all the usual suspects. NZ fur seals bobbing around the bow of the kayak and dolphins speeding past on their way south.

Suddenly there was a set of whiskers on my bow

Suddenly there was a set of whiskers on my bow

 

Robyn is visited by an inquisitive seal

Robyn is visited by an inquisitive seal

Second Valley and Rapid Bay areas offer lots to the sea kayaker and the whole day trip is only 12 km or so, allowing plenty of time to explore or have a relaxing lunch on one of the secluded beaches.

Sand tracks and stingrays

Our cunning plan was to leave the Calca Peninsula and move to the Black Springs campsite in the Coffin Bay National Park, where we could launch for Point Longnose and Pt. Sir Isaac.

The Calca peninsula is very sparcely inhabited and provides some great insights into what may have been in the past. The coastline is also inspiring with rugged cliffs and rocky bays.

I think this old homestead building has “gone to God” and certainly someone agrees.

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Others had also gone the same way a long time ago.

Grave 1

Tiny grave decorated with ancient Abalone shells and a long gone blue flower vase

Grave 2

A wander along the coastline found Sea Lions playing in the surf.

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or sunbaking on the sand

Sunbathers

and talking about girls

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Our journey came to a halt on our way along a 4WD track into Black Springs Well. Bogged to the axles in deep soft sand and unable to keep going forward. Luckily Matt “the shovel” was with us and in around 2 hours we were unstuck and on our way, but this time to a different camp site. Just another minor change in plan for the group.

The view of Mt. Dutton and Coffin Bays from the track above our camp showed the winding series of bays. Matt and Kathrin spent time on the water here while Ian and Robyn investigated the various walks.

Unbogged and going againBay view

Matt left some cool water in the upturned lid of his kayak hatch and had a few thankful guests in the late afternoon.

Birds hatch 1wallaby Joey drink

A visit to the beach meant a swim with another of the Bay’s creatures. A large Stingray kept circling in the shallows, just to stop everyone being completely relaxed on this beautiful beach.

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Dolphins and sea lions

On the road again, this time with Matt and Kathrin who are visiting from Germany. Loaded with 2 double sea kayaks we travelled towards the west coast of South Australia in temperatures above 40 degrees C.

The  trip plan was to spend time in remote locations, paddle the coastline, swim with dolphins and sea lions, see lots of Australia’s wildlife and enjoy a few red wines along the way.Bus stop

Passing through Kimba, know as the town “halfway across Australia” or “middle of nowhere” you just have to have a photo taken in front of the “Big Gala”.Huge flocks of these noisy birds are common in this area.

Big Gala

After two days travelling, we set up camp and Matt and Kathrin enjoyed a relaxing 18km paddle in a shallow protected bay, to check out their borrowed kayak..

Launchig BB.

Next day was Dolphin Day when we swam with a large pod of dolphins and then spent time frolicking with Sea Lions. It sounds easy to film a pod of wild dolphins but the reality was far from that. They were in turbid water and were either going too fast to film or too close to get anything more than a fin in the frame. Still it was a fantastic experience to swim with the wild pod, Although the visibility wasn’t the best we managed to get some photos and video.

The sea lions of course were much easier to film as they played with us however only a few of them seemed interested in our games.

Surf Kayaking – FUN at any age

Surf kayaking is my greatest kayaking pleasure; well at the moment anyway. I have been returning to some surf breaks that I first tried to board surf at when I was about 16 and then haunted when I was in my thirties. Now a few years later, or maybe that’s decades, I’m still here with an even greater sense of FUN.

Late 1980's. Bells Beach Victoria. 1 car 3 skis 3 white water kayaks

Late 1980’s. Bells Beach Victoria. 1 car 3 skis 3 white water kayaks and lots of FUN. That’s me in the middle.

I owned and surfed many specialist surf kayaks over the years as well as a whole swag of wave ski’s during the 1980’s and 1990’s.

Small day at Pondalowie Bay South Australia.

Small day at Pondalowie Bay South Australia. Marty Williams at play.

As we are the driest state on the driest continent there’s no white water paddling to be had and certainly no playboats in kayak shops, but luckily I was able to borrow a Jackson FUN from a friend interstate . Now this is very much a white water playboat and I am a little heavy for it at 88kg but it is certainly comfortable.

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First paddle. Nice wave peaked up, paddled to take off, dropped down the face and threw my weight into a bottom turn. The FUN spun 180 degrees, I screamed backwards, lent back too far, dug the rear deck into the wave, back flipped and airborne as my head kissed the deck.  Cleaned out the sinus anyway !!!.
Hmmm…. this kayak needs a little more finesse than I used with a finned surf kayak.

Another hour or more in some pretty choppy waves but lots of FUN. I’ll write a review of the Jackson FUN, for surf kayaking, after I get it a little better under control. We shot a little footage but the camera malfunctioned, however you should get the idea.

Cheers…Ian Pope
“The best surfer out there is the one having the most FUN”… Duke Kahanamoku. 

Photo of the day

What happens when you’re in the right place at the right time with a camera in hand. Well you get picked for photo of the day by “Lets Be Wild”.

Let’sBeWild.com is an online adventure travel magazine, inspiring you to leave the comfort of the known for the excitement of the unknown.

A photo (by me) of Robyn paddling around the headland leaving Adventure Bay, Bruny Island Tasmania. Flat calm conditions for a couple of hours before the southerly winds sprung up again.

Link to the photo page here

You might also want to check out the Photo Essay “Dolphins of SA”

Happy New Year !!!!!…. Ian Pope

Edithburgh : paddling the old wheat ports

On the road again. Kayaks, mountain bikes and other toys.

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Six of us met in Edithburgh for kayaking and bike riding. We managed a couple of paddles along the coast and offshore but the wind and catastrophic fire danger alert kept our mountain bike riding to the main tracks. The town of Pt. Lincoln was threatened by a bushfire and 50km away fires burnt towards the coastal town of Ardrossan. A week later and the Pt. Lincoln fire is still burning within containment lines.

Edithburgh on the Yorke Peninsula coast. A main street, jetty, 2 hotels, a couple of cafes and a wind farm.

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The Wind farm

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Old and New. Abandoned farmhouse with old windmill and the Wind farm in the distance.

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Glenn and Kathy decided to visit Troubridge Island 8 km offshore.
They landed at low tide.

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The sea is held back from the Lighthouse but only just.

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Kathy explored the walkway behind the Lighthouse.

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Meanwhile, Gavin and Ian explored the coastline between Edithburgh and Wool Bay 12km to the north.

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Past the Jetty and on to the Tidal swimming Pool. Deserted even on this hot day. I remember swimming here when I was about 10 years old and nothing much has changed.

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Following the coastline on a flooding tide we passed the oyster beds at Coobowie.

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Rounding the point we could see the wheat silos at Port Giles.The silos are full and waiting for the grain ships to arrive.

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A coastline of limestone cliffs, small caves and beaches that are only accessible at high tide.

Pulling into Wool Bay we see the old Lime burning kiln near the jetty.

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Best thing to do on a hot day – relax in the deserted swimming pool.

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