Gone with the wind

Our cunning plan was to paddle to Kangaroo Island for the weekend and explore the camping and photo options on the Chapman River. This would mean a crossing of the notorious Backstairs Passage which I had done countless times, but for Steve it would be his first trip. However, it seems that Euros the god of the South East wind was looking over our shoulder again and our plan would be “gone with the wind”.

After our windy experiences on a recent trip we activated Plan B. Instead of an 18km crossing each way we decided on a 77km down wind paddle from Cape Jervis to Steves’ home beach of Christies Beach, Adelaide.

Steve all packed and ready to go

Steve all packed and ready to go

With the wind around 20-25kn in Backstairs Passage we could hardly make out features on the island.

It was calm in the marina but we knew that the winds were around 20kn and increasing on Backstairs Passage

It was calm in the marina but we knew that the winds were around 20kn and increasing on Backstairs Passage

We were able to sneak out around the marina into Gulf St Vincent hugging the coast where the effects of the wind were greatly reduced, but still enough to give us a wet ride. We planned to keep in close to the cliffs as the SE wind would sheer over the top of the cliffs giving us calm water at the cliff base.

It's this way along the coast

It’s this way along the coast

All set for a wet ride home

All set for a wet ride home

We negotiated the first couple of kilometers past Morgans beach and Starfish Hill until we reached the base of the cliff line. We were then able to hug in close out of the wind and enjoy the scenery towering over us as well as the seabed in crystal clear water.

Nice easy paddling

Nice easy paddling

I was able to get in a little kayak sailing practice with a fully laden boat, something I haven’t done for a while. I’m not sure Steve really appreciated me zig zagging around him, giving him a quick history and geography lesson as I passed, but it did allow for a couple of photos.

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A very relaxed sail as we kept inshore out of the wind

I never tire of this stunning coastline with its cliff plunging straight into the clear water or the small caves and fissures that abound as well as the wildlife that plays here.

Investigating a small cove

Investigating a small cove

Steve the photographer

Steve the photographer

Steve was always among the rocks

Steve was always among the rocks

Do not disturb

Do not disturb

Sea lions played around us

Sea lions played around us

It was hard to get them to stay still for a photo

It was hard to get them to stay still for a photo

Not interested in our passing

Not interested in our passing

Our destination was Normanville where we camped at the local Caravan Park. A nice place to spend the night and there is even a small cafe operating by the jetty.

Next morning the forecast was again winds 20kn SE strengthening to 25-30kn during the day. We launched in the calmer Normanville bay with Steve telling me that having a kayak sail was definitely not “playing fair”.

Not playing fair

Not playing fair

Perfect sailing weather

Perfect sailing weather

We took advantage of the slightly calmer conditions inshore until we reached the cliffs at Carrickalinga where we again hugged the cliff base.

Lolling around in a protected inlet

Lolling around in a protected inlet

Again we were treated to clear water and high cliffs as we slowed to investigate many rocky inlets.

Second Valley ahead

 

Lots of small caves and fissures along the way

Lots of small caves and fissures along the way

Strange rock formations

Jumbled rock formations

Calm water in the cove

Calm water in the cove

As we reached the bluff before Myponga Beach we swung to seaward plotting a course across several kilometers of open water that would see us land at Christies Beach, where we had arranged a pick up. I’m afraid I didn’t have the opportunity to take photos as I was too busy controlling the kayak under sail. I was able to catch waves and often saw the GPS clock 16km/ hr, before being buried into the wave in front.

As the wind increased I had to drop the sail partly because it was getting a little hairy, but mostly because I was  unable to stay in contact with Steve. From there on it was a large wind driven following sea that gave us lots of fun as it sped us towards home.

We had paddled and sailed some amazing coastline covering 77km in 2 days with an average speed of 7km/hr which included lots of time playing along the way. Steves’ first crossing to Kangaroo Island will have to wait until another day.

Happy paddling (and sailing)

Ian                                                     Steve

ian smurf crop (2)

king

 

 

 

The Blowhole

Sea kayak Day Paddle – Cape Jervis to Blowhole Beach.  Actually there isn’t really a blowhole there, not like the type we normally think of where towering waves crash onto a rocky coastline sending plumes of spray skywards. This is Blowhole Creek  in the Deep Creek National Park and one of the picturesque beaches along this very rugged coastline. I have been visiting this beach for the last 40 years and the only thing that has changes is that you can now access it via a 4WD track from within the National Park. In the old days it was a rocky walk down a rough track or straight down the fence line on Cobblers Hill.

This area has a tidal stream of up to 3 knots as water empties and refills the Gulf St Vincent so all paddling needs to be planned with the tides.  My many years experience paddling this coast have also taught me to be very cautious of forecasts and take more notice of the conditions at the time as well my own observations.

The weather forecast a couple of days out had been for smooth seas and light winds so we planned a trip along the coast from Cape Jervis to Blowhole Creek and return. We gathered 5 local paddlers together with the idea of exploring the rocky coastline up close, if the weather forecast was correct.

The "5 fine young men" ready for action

The 5 “fine young men” ready for action

Arriving at Cape Jervis we found that the Backstairs Passage between the mainland and Kangaroo Island was just starting to have white caps on the horizon, stirred up by a Sou’Easterly breeze. Great….another day of headwinds and certainly not what we had hoped for but inshore it would be much calmer.

We got organised and waited in the shelter of the marina for the Kangaroo Island ferry to leave.

Waiting for the KI ferry to leave

Waiting for the KI ferry to leave

Then we plodded off into the increasing gusts.

Michael and Steve

Michael and Steve

Of course there is a shipping lane in Backstairs Passage so you need to keep a wary eye on the horizon.

The Ferry and Container ship crossing paths

The Ferry and Container ship crossing paths

Sean and Michael in the protected waters

Sean and Michael in the protected waters

Heading out of the protection of Cape Jervis. Kangaroo Island in the distance.

Heading out of the protection of Cape Jervis. Kangaroo Island in the distance.

Looking at my GPS I thought “ Hey this was supposed to be an easy paddle riding the ebb tide, but we are only making 5km/hr in the strengthening wind. We decided to stay close inshore and use the headlands for protection from the breeze.

Paddling close inshore to avoid the winds.

Ian showing the way.

We reached Lands End and passed close in at Whites Beach where the underwater power cable goes to Kangaroo Island.

Staying in close

Staying in close

We soon arrived at the more interesting section of the paddle, where the steep cliffs fall straight into the water.

Clear water and shelter from the wind

Clear water and shelter from the wind

This allowed us to get up close and personal with the rocks and swell. As usual Steve was found bobbing around among the rocks.

Steve inspects another crevice

Steve inspects another crevice

Rugged coastline

Rugged coastline

Inspecting the rocky coastline

Inspecting the rocky coastline

We “played” our way along the coast to Naiko inlet which is a small inlet with sandy beach. There we spotted the first signs of life for the trip. Maybe Alien life was a better description as we spotted a spaceship landed among the native bush.

Signs of life on the hill

Signs of life on the hill

A closer view of the landing spot

A closer view of the landing spot

Soon Cobblers Hill was in sight with Blowhole Beach just around the headland. We could see bushwalkers on the Heysen Trail which runs 1200 km from Victor Harbor to Parachilna Gorge in the northern Flinders Ranges.

One more headland to go

One more headland to go

A landing through small surf got us onto the pristine beach for lunch.

Blowhole Beach

Blowhole Beach

Rodney surprised with a bowl of fresh strawberries, cherries and grapes to share. Who said he’s disorganised ??

The lunch spot

The lunch spot

Looking SW

Looking SW

Looking towards Kangaroo Island

Looking towards Kangaroo Island

Then back on the water through a small surf we found that the wind had abated slightly but still gave us an easy ride home as we picked up the start of the flood tide.

Steve on the way out

Steve on the way out

Again we played around in  some rock gardens resulting in me high and dry on rocks. (sorry no photos !!)

Having fun

Having fun

Among the rocks again

Among the rocks again

Checking out a small ravine

Checking out a small ravine

Many years ago some intrepid fisherman built a “get away” on the headland which is now complete with TV antenna. Unfortunately you can see that the “room with a view” has lost its’ door to a recent gale and now resides at the bottom of the cliff. Still your hardly likely to get too many interruptions here.

Room for one

Room for one

We arrived back at Cape Jervis just in time to see the Kangaroo Island ferry heading out for Penneshaw. A great way to spend a day on this mainly deserted coastline with a pristine beach lunch stop.

Arriving at the Cape as the ferry departs

Arriving at the Cape as the ferry departs

This is an excellent place for exciting paddling especially as the swell and associated clapatis increases. It should only be paddled by those with the appropriate sea skills and of course a properly fitted out sea kayak.

Happy Paddling
Ian Pope

blowhole (2)

 

Starting point. Cape Jervis
Distance. 18km return
Hazards. This area is subject to a tidal stream of up to 3 knots so paddlers must take this into account on all trips. Note that South Australia has “dodge tides” and more information is available from the Bureau of Meteorology website (bom.gov.au). There are many reefy/rocky areas along the coast as well as the possibility of large breaking waves with the predominant swell being from the SW. There are limited landing spots along this coast even in good conditions. Take care and seek local knowledge.

Chart AUS 780

Paddlers and Photographers Ian, Shaun, Steve, Michael and Rodney

ian smurf crop (2)

jim2 king Yogi bear Sir Rodney Hubert Biggs