The beach perspective

The wind was picking up a little and the temperature had dropped a degree or two as I stood on the headland watching the wave sets roll in. I could see the low pressure front on the horizon and knew I probably had an hour or more before it hit. I really wanted to get out for a kayak surf but there was just that hint of doubt about the conditions.

There were regular sets of thick waves coming through, so I sat and watched for a while. I could see the shore break booming onto the beach and knew that it would take good timing to break out off the beach but it looked manageable.View from the cliff top

I wandered over to Rhino rock and checked out the swell. Certainly looked manageable from here, high up on the headland.

Rhino rock

Rhino rock

Maybe it would be better in the small bay the other side of Camel rock.

Camel Rock

Camel Rock

Sure; it seemed a little on the  “big fat wave” side of things but manageable. These waves are big, fat and hugely powerful but that means that the ride is fast, furious and sometimes a bit scary. I grabbed the kayak off the car and got my gear ready.

Maybe I should just check out that shore break from down on the beach. Get that “beach perspective”. Yep; check out the “BP” and maybe be a little on the cautious side seeing we are surfing the Southern Ocean swells direct from Antarctica.

They crash onto the craggy headlands and bays around this area of Southern Australia, which I suppose is why the area is known as the Shipwreck Coast.

I walked down to the lower track towards the bay to check out the shore break ”BP” just as a nice set came in.

Nice sets...but that's only the shore break

Nice sets…but that’s only the shore break

Down on the beach for the "BP"

Down on the beach for the “BP”

 

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Errr..... maybe not today

Errr….. maybe not today

Hmmmm………….maybe it’s one of those days when you just need to give it a miss and hang out with the locals.

Chatting with a local

Chatting with a local

 

Maippunga. Place of high cliffs.

It was some time after dawn and I could hear the wind whistling through the trees. I stuck my head out to feel a good 20 knots of wind which was supposed to have abated by dawn giving us a nice 10 knot SE breeze. Well that was the forecast anyway, but maybe things would calm down as the morning went on and the sun warmed to the predicted 25C.

Gavin and Rodney arrived with the wind dropping and our paddle to Maippunga Beach was on. The 16 km return trip is mainly along cliffs fronted by a narrow rocky  beach and is a lovely paddle in most conditions. Beware of anything over 15 knots from the SW which will give a short confused sea and testing paddling conditions, but today was not that day.

The wind had abated and close inshore is protected from the SE’ly winds by the high cliffs, so we were assured of a easy paddle at least until the predicted 20 knot southerly winds arrived later in the morning; hopefully providing a little fun on the way home.

The sky was mainly overcast with the sun poking through occasionally to light up the cliffs and give us the chance of a few nice photos. The water along this coast is often very clear and takes on an interesting blue colour as the light changes.

Looking south from Sellicks Beach

Looking south from Sellicks Beach

Calm seas

Calm seas

Maippunga is the Kaurna aboriginal name for the Myponga area and translates to “place of high cliffs”. The Kaurna people lived on this land before white settlement in the area about 1840. Before settlement the hills were covered with gum and wattle trees however large tracts were cleared by the first farmers in the area.

Our start on Sellicks Beach is at the outer limit of the Adelaide metropolitan area and was a place that I had spent holiday time as a child, although then it was just a few houses above the beach. Myponga Beach is a small beach area with a few holiday houses dotted along the shore and surrounding hills and has now become a premium place to have a holiday shack.

We paddled past a couple of dog walkers on the beach.

Beautiful morning for a walk

Beautiful morning for a walk

View along the coastline

View along the coastline

Clear water and limestone cliffs

Clear water and limestone cliffs

 

Gavin admiring the morning view

Gavin admiring the morning view

We were able to get in close among the rocks and check out the rock strata. Most of the area is sedimentary rock, formed from layers of sand, mud and limestone deposited on an ancient sea floor between, roughly, 1000 million and 600 million years ago. Geologists know this era as the Proterozoic era, meaning ‘first life’and until very late in the Proterozoic, the only life in the seas was blue-green algae, still familiar to us today.  The youngest rocks in the area belong to the Cambrian period (600 to 500 million years ago) when then-abundant marine animals evolved hard shells and thus began to show up in the fossil record. Fossils from Myponga Beach  were the first proof of Cambrian-age rocks in the greater Adelaide area.

Paddling amongst the rocky outcrops

Paddling amongst the rocky outcrops

 

Heading in for a closer look

Heading in for a closer look

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Eroded cliff face

Eroded cliff face

Finding a new path

Finding a new path

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We met some of the local inhabitants. There are rookeries of Pied Cormorants along the coast with numbers varying with the seasons. Pods of dolphins are also common offshore and there has been occasional sightings of Southern Right Whales in winter.

Pied Cormorants

Pied Cormorants

Meet the locals

Meet the locals

 

Stranded like a Shag on a rock

Stranded like a Shag on a rock

Myponga has a boat ramp for launching small fishing craft at high tide as long as you own a tractor and is now a favourite spot for a holiday house for those that can afford it.

Houses on Myponga Beach

Houses on Myponga Beach

Near the southern headland is the ruins of the old jetty which serviced a healthy shipping trade for 30 years exporting local wattle bark for leather tanning, livestock and wheat. The jetty opened in tragic circumstances when a woman nursing a baby fell off onto the rocks. She cushioned the fall of the baby which survived, but unfortunately she was killed. Eventually the ketch trade weaned and a big blow tore the jetty apart in 1900.

Remains of the old jetty

Remains of the old jetty

On our return trip we headed a kilometre or more offshore to pick up the predicted southerly wind. This is a great easy sea kayak paddle in the right conditions, but can be a very difficult paddle when the SW winds blow causing a confused sea, clapatis close inshore and is often affected by catabatic winds along the cliffs.

Photos by Gavin  Rodney and Ian.

Hagar pope2 Sir Rodney

The Western Shore

The Aagot, an iron Barque of 1242 tons, built at Glasgow, 1882, as the Firth Of Clyde, but now laying on rocks on Wardang Island. A gale on 11 October 1907. wrecked the ship in rough seas and  imprisoned the crew on board until the ebb tide moderated conditions and allowed a member of the crew to swim ashore with line. wreck_aagot I’ve paddled past the wreck site a number of times in fair weather and seen the outline of the anchor poking from the rocks at low tide but this time we looked at the wreck from a different angle. We had paddled offshore 13km from Pt Victoria to the north western side of Wardang group of islands with a fresh headwind and short chop. This route is quite shallow and reefy in places and always makes for interesting wave action when the wind is up. We camped the night waiting for a better weather window, but it seemed to disappear, being replaced with a stiff headwind and SW swell. IMG_9904 Our journey down the western side of the island started well enough with a 10-12kn headwind and  sloppy sea but within 2 kilometres of the wreck site it had shifted up a gear to 12-17kn with larger swells and a breaking sea on top. Wardang Goose Is 122Not ideal conditions for kayak photography so we decided to land at one of the small protected beaches and check out the wreck site from the land. Of course there was a savage shore break which proved to be a little fun, especially for Robyn and Ian in the Seaward Passat double kayak. Rodney fared better with a text book landing on the sand. Wardang Goose Is 177

Wardang Goose Is 187 Few people visit this uninhabited island group and generally you will only encounter the occasional fishing boat. Wardang Goose Is 171 We however found numerous tracks of the local inhabitants. Wardang Goose Is 134 A walk over the rocky headland bought us to the wreck site and we could see that in a gale this coast would have been treacherous. Not surprisingly there are many ship wrecks on this coast as it is a low island group that can easily meld in with the mainland when viewed from sea. The island also didn’t have any navigation light until 1909 and even then various maps showed it in different places just to cause a little more confusion. This few kilometers of coastline has the remains of the ships, Aagot, Australian, Investigator, Notre Dame D ‘Arvor, Monarch and McIntyre.

The Aagot anchors lay below these waves.

Wardang Goose Is 159 One strange thing about  beach combing the area was an abundance of right foot thongs washed up. Only right foot…never the left….what a strange phenomenon.

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Our time exploring was cut short as the wind threatened to further increase off shore. We made a perfect departure from the protected beach timing our breakout perfectly to avoid the shore break. The run back to camp was fast and furious sliding down a following sea and occasional breaking waves to arrive at the protection of the north tip of the islands. The north tip is home to a colony of Sea Lions and a large number of Pied Cormorants who inhabit the rocky outcrops so it was relaxing to hide in the lee and enjoy the antics of the locals.

 

Wardang Goose Is 226 Wardang Goose Is 209 Wardang Goose Is 197 We had left our campsite guarded by a Peregrine Falcon who had taken up residence in an old radio tower. IMG_9922 We landed back at camp having had an interesting paddle and looking forward to the evening meal with celebratory red wine. Rodney had chosen an excellent Grant Burge Balthasar 2012 Shiraz and Grant Burge 2010 Corryton Cabernet Sauvignon and Robyn and I provided a lovely Eccolo Wines Sangiovese. The wines  and pre-dinner snacks were enjoyed with great gusto watching the sun set and the full moon rise. Wardang Goose Is 292 Next day we headed along the eastern coast of Wardang Island with thoughts of the Narungga people who had been travelling to Wardang Island long before the arrival of Europeans. The island could be accessed at low tide by wading out to Green Island and then swimming for  kilometres across a deep channel. People would sit on the shore and sing songs and wave branches to distract the sharks from swimmers. I started singing quite loudly when a fin appeared of the stern of the kayak but luckily it was only a dolphin.

Mining of Lime Sand had begun on the island in 1910 and lasted for several years until easier  to access deposits were located. There are still remnants of the small community that was involved in mining and agriculture. The island was once stocked with sheep and large water tanks were constructed, living quarters, shearing sheds and other facilities were built. Several families stayed on the island to manage the stock and the children attended a small school. A barge was used to ferry materials and stock to and from the island and later a ketch, ‘the Narungga’, would move between the island and Dolly’s wharf. IMG_9908 The ketch “Narrunga”, shown here tied up at Dollys Wharf. narnarungga Little remains of Dollys Wharf these days. Wardang Goose Is 037 The last part of the paddle brought a few light rain showers indispersed with periods of bright sunshine and light winds. A fitting end to another great paddle. IMG_0711   …and a few extra photos from our trip.

 

Thanks to Rodney for the photos, delicious snacks interesting wine and of course to Robyn for all other catering.

Ian, Robyn and Rodney. Paddling South …..where not everything goes to plan

The mysteries of Yoho beach

It happens every year. Somewhere between Friday the 13th and the Winter Solstice on 21st June we watch the weather patterns for the perfect day that will take us back to Yoho Beach. That type of day where the sky is just a  haze, sea the colour of ink and the horizon almost indistinguishable, is when we return to continue our research on Yoho Beach.

During summer we often paddle past Yoho beach, which lies in Gulf St Vincent just a few kilometers north of the gulf’s entrance at Cape Jervis. It’s a lovely place to paddle on a warm summer day, passing along the rock strewn coastline, looking at the abundant bird life and keeping an eye out for the local dolphin pods but the swells are rarely low enough to land. But in winter at the appointed time we return to continue our study of the mysteries of Yoho Beach.

We set off from Rapid Bay for the hop along the coastline passing the towering cliffs of Rapid Heads and enjoying the frolicking seals. The water is calm, dark and certainly deep as we round the headlands.

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Paddling along this area is always eventful, especially when you get in close to the cliffs and ride the surging waves as Michael soon found out.

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After a while the Headlands of Yoho come into view, with the winter grasses blanketing the slopes.

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It’s an odd place, sort of eerie, a strangeness that creeps up on you every time you land there. You always feel like you are being watched by someone lurking on those bald rock strewn hills; but there is never anyone there. Like someone is looking over your shoulder when you wander along “beach combing” the area, but I’ve never met anyone else on the beach and know of only a few people who ever stop there to explore or enjoy lunch on the grassy slopes.

This year we bought with us “Professor” Rodney B.,  a newcomer to this area, who could hopefully cast more light on the strangeness of Yoho.

We carefully landed in the small channel and came ashore.

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An ancient rock wall stands guard halfway along the beach, it’s purpose long lost and the people who built it long departed.

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A small creek winds its’ way to the ocean making an excellent habitat for local fauna.

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The first sign that something was different here was what we found when beachcombing. Left foot thongs. Never a right, only a left. Some people call them Flip-Flops others Sandals but in Australia they can only be Thongs. Over the years we found some with Asian branding, some with English, a few with German and Arabic, some near new, others with the imprint of the previous owner well worn into them. All sizes, all shapes, all left foot they magically came to be washed up on this lonely beach.

A colourful thong

 

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We kept returning over the years to see more thongs as well as a scattering of other shoe styles, still all left foot, and recently we have been coming across more  left foot Crocs wedged amongst the rocks.

washed up amongst the seaweed

washed up amongst the seaweed

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Lost and lonely

We have even picked up a compass, it was probably discarded as it too pointed Left.

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Pointing left of North

We often gathered with a nice bottle of McLaren Vale Shiraz and wondered about this place. We pored over tidal flow charts looking for answers and even started taking measurements in the area. We erected markers next to rocks so that they could be measured each year.

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Over the years we found that they too were wearing more on the left side than the right. The wind is also strange here, no matter which direction you turn it always comes from your Left.

Is it the unusual dodge tides that frequent the gulf that allow only left footwear to come ashore and why not the right as well ?. Is it the high pressure cells that pass through over summer, rotating in an anticlockwise direction ?.  Is it a stranger phenomenon, something that we don’t understand about this lonely beach ?.

Recently I was sorting some old camera equipment and saw my old Minolta waterproof camera that I had used in the 1980’s and when I found it still had film I decided to have it processed. The pictures were of sea kayaking and camping  near that beach.

An early visit to the area. camped on a rocky beach near Yoho.

An early visit to the area. camped on a rocky beach near Yoho.

And then there it was.  Maybe the answer to the riddle of Yoho beach partly hidden in the trees.

The Spaceship perched above the nearby beach

The Spaceship perched above the nearby beach

Was it the arrival of the spaceship, perhaps spinning anti-clockwise that created that Left vortex that is still there today?. I’m not sure that we will really ever know the answer but it sure makes a good reason to paddle along the rugged coastline, stop for some beach-combing and maybe even lookout for that spaceship 🙂

Ian, Robyn, Michael and “Professor”Rodney B.
Paddlingsouth

Metric madness

We have been visiting Memory Cove in the Pt Lincoln National Park again. This is certainly one of my favourite places to spend a few days, either kayaking along the coast or if it’s too rough, spending time exploring the area by Mountain Bike. The park consists mainly of Sheoak and Eucalyptus woodland with a number of species being represented. The sandy beaches are unspoilt and the sheer cliffs and granite outcrops along the coast make for stunning paddling and the opportunity to see Southern Right Whales in winter.

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This is a place that has remained much the same since the days of Whaling in the early 1800’s, when whalers who were based at nearby Spalding Cove and Thistle Island pulled into this cove. They established a “mailbox” among the rocks on the southern end of the cove, where letters and messages were left for other passing vessels to collect and deliver to the township of Port Lincoln.

The letterbox is marked by an inscription in the rock, 4 ft and a direction arrow, meaning look 4 foot above this mark.

Mailbox

Now Australian currency was metricated in 1966 from pounds and pence to dollars and cents and distances gradually changed from feet and inches to metres and centimetres but I’m sure Whalers were still in the old ways.

However if you read the Department of Environment brochure  on Memory Cove the letterbox has moved somewhat to 1.2m Λ, changing to metric measures. Maybe the job of “proof reader” has been abolished with the job of “Whaler” but I certainly think it’s just a case of Metric Madness. 🙂

Cheers
Ian Pope
Still Paddling South….

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The Adventure Playbook

I was lucky enough to come across the Adventures of Clarke Carter some time ago when he dragged wheeled kayaks across a frozen Victoria Island and skied from the North Pole to Canada. He then sailed the Southern Ocean, paddled the Sepik River of Papua New Guinea in a dugout canoe and attempted to row across Bass Strait from the Australian Mainland to Tasmania.

Not bad for a guy still in his twenties and now as well as his job as a film maker he has published an e-book on adventure with the aim of encouraging others to share his love of the outdoors. You can download the free e-book and follow his blog here. For all you kayaking fans out there he has a short section on sea kayak adventure on page 44 and hopefully this will inspire your own trips.

The epic adventure of crossing Bass Strait from the Australian mainland to Tasmania is covered on page 24 and the photos on the page were taken by me on my 3 Bass Strait Kayak Expeditions, so that at least puts me ahead of Clarke in one adventure count !.

Other favourites from my Bass Strait Expeditions can be found here

Cheers
Ian