The Holiday Coast

We are paddling the “Holiday Coast”. Everywhere there are people fishing, people walking, people just relaxing in the sun. It’s strange we haven’t seen any kids on the beach and everyone looks 60 years or older, then we realise we are on the “Grey Nomad Trail”.

The Nomads criss-cross Australia following the sun in their 4WD vehicles towing huge caravans and congregating at any place that has good fishing and a half decent tavern. We feel a little out of place as we set up in Point Turton, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia; our car is dirty from the desert trip, unlike all the shiny new ones in the park and our Ultimate Xplor desert camper is a third of the size of any others here.

The next day bring drizzling rain in the morning but all is saved when we are invited by Ken and Janet to join a Melbourne Cup lunch in their Corporate Box. Lots of food, lots of drinks and lots of fun makes for a memorable day.

The weather brightens and we get on the water again. The coastline although mainly low limestone cliffs is quite interesting with  lots of shallow reefs to explore.

Leaving the beach we head towards the jetty

Leaving the beach we head towards the jetty

Cormorants fishing from the rocks.......probably having more luck than the fisherman

Cormorants fishing from the rocks…….probably having more luck than the fisherman

We dropped in at the local swimming hole. There’s a low rock walkway out to steps but it was submerged when we passed.

Gavin drops in at the swimming hole

Gavin drops in at the swimming hole

We paddled towards Point Souttar and Corny Point in near dead calm conditions.

Ian and Robyn admiring the view

Ian and Robyn admiring the view

We stopped for a chat to one of the local fisherman……

Landing another calamari

Landing another calamari

……and then spent some time exploring along the coast.

This coast is generally protected from the southern gales but we did find the wreck of the Yelta in shallow water east of Point Turton, where only the boiler is now visible. It was run aground in 1926 when the steam driven vessel started to take on water.

The boiler of the Yelta

The boiler of the Yelta

A great stretch of coastline on the “foot of Yorke Peninsula” and well worth the effort of exploring by kayak.

Robyn                                         Gavin                                      Ian

RobynHagarian smurf crop (2)

On an Ebbing Tide

Tides just come and go and we take them for granted, not realising the complexities of the oceans tidal basins and their interaction with the land masses. Kayakers talk of “riding the tides” to get a free ride along the coastline or being wary of “tidal races” where the landmass restricts the tidal flow.

Tides are always there; as regular as clockwork although they may vary in height and speed in different places. In South Australia we don’t have large tidal flows but we do have strange “dodge tides” where little if any movement occurs for a day.

But when you paddle Australia’s “inland sea” everything changes.

The tide seems to have “gone out”. Lucky I bought my kayak trolley !!.

The long walk

The long walk

The last time I launched here the tide was right in with water lapping the sand dunes…….but that was 1989.

Fast facts
Where. Lake Eyre (Kati – Thanda) South Australia.
Area. About 1100 sq km.
Tides. On average there is water in the lake every 8 years or so, but it has completely filled only 3 times in the last 160 years so it’s a long wait for high tide.

 

 

Urban Paddler

It’s winter outside with today’s maximum temperature forecast to be 18 °C (64° F). I  really would like to stay in my warm bed, but Steve has organised a morning paddle with Helen and I was invited, so out into the cold I go. Of course it’s not really cold by some paddlers standards; there’s no ice to crack, no need for a drysuit although it did necessitate a beanie and paddling jacket.

We only had a couple of hours so it was local waters for us. Glenelg is one of the closest beaches to the city of Adelaide and has developed into a shopping and entertainment centre as well as having a pretty nice beach, although quite crowded in summer.

It used to look like this back when Steve was a boy……

glenelg jetty old

.. but that was before the storms of  the mid 1950’s. Now it’s just the remains of the breakwater in 10 metres of water which guard the new jetty.jetty 2We launched nearby  and headed along the coast to Glenelg beach proper to explore the old breakwater. In summertime I often pull up here and jump in for a snorkel amongst the concrete remains that are home to many fish species, but there’s was no way that was happening today.

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Launching from the West Beach Marina

The urban sprawl of Glenelg

The urban sprawl of Glenelg ahead of us

But there is always beauty to be found, even in the Urban Landscape.

Looking along the Glenelg Blocks

Looking along the Glenelg Blocks

Yep you guessed it. A couple of New Zealand “backpackers” had decided to set up home right in the middle of this prestigious area. New Zealand Long Nosed Fur Seals, like other New Zealanders are common in our waters.

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Now that is definitely a face only a mother could love.

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Helen decided to get a few mug shots in case Australian Border Protection wanted to check their entry permits.

Helen the photographer

Helen the photographer

We hung around for a while watching the Pied Cormorants doing a little fishing, until the smell of “fish breath” got too much.DSC_0095

We watched the Army /Airforce conducting maneuvers with Black Hawks and other helicopters overhead.DSC_0081

This area has changed dramatically over the years with the growth of hi-rise apartments and hotels on what was once sand dunes. Luckily they are mainly confined to this one area so most of the coastline south of here is still “Blot Free”.DSC_0078

A school of fish bubbled to the surface creating havoc with Seals, Cormorants and Seagulls diving for a feed.DSC_0103

The thought of a feed sent us scurrying homeward. Urban Paddling is a great way to spend a couple of hours of water time and the Glenelg Breakwater is certainly worth a visit no matter what the weather.

Ian                             Steve                  Helen

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Steve King of the shorebreak

It’s late Autumn. The mornings are cooler now as we waited for the first rays of light to slowly rise over the Mt Lofty Ranges bringing a soft light if not warmth. The beach sand is cold on the feet.  You can hear the loud thud of the shorebreak almost drowning out the bark of a dog on it’s early morning run.

A guy riding a mountain bike with multiple flashing lights appears and he’s towing a kayak. That’s him; Steve King “King of the Shorebreak” here for his regular morning paddle and I have been crazy enough to join him.

Within a few minutes he has unhooked the kayak and is ready for another early morning paddle along the coastline. The first task is to negotiate the shorebreak and thankfully it seems quieter than normal although there are several lines of waves to negotiate.

Out through the first line of waves

Out through the first line of waves

Sometimes there a lull in the waves so you get through the first line easily……

Sometimes there a lull

Sometimes there a lull

……only to find the second line waiting for you.

About to get very wet

About to get very wet

The wind was light so we we headed along the coast stopping to play in waves generated by the offshore reefs. These waves can be savage at times as they break over the shallow reef shelf, however, today they were just lots of FUN.

Steve launches of the top of a small wave

Steve launches off the top of a small wave

Hey Steve…Just paddle over there. I think I can get a good photo.

Yep. He's in there somewhere

Yep. He’s in there somewhere

We bounced around for quite a while, enjoying the waves cascading across the reef in all directions.

Managing to keep control

Managing to keep control

The turbulence of the bluff

The turbulence off the bluff

We sat in the lee of a large chunk of reef and enjoyed the scenery.

Checking out an exposed rock

In the lee of the reef

That’s lots of fun on an early morning paddle, but I have housework to do, so it’s back to the run the shorebreak again.

Trying to come in on the back of a wave can work sometimes...but not always.

Trying to come in on the back of a wave can work sometimes…but not always.

You get through the outer line to find more surprises waiting for you.

Caught between 2 lines of waves

Caught between 2 lines of waves

And sneaking through the quiet part of the break we caught the last wave of the day.

and then the last wave home

the last wave home

Just in case you thought that some of the photos were a little blurred, think about this. I was in there with him, using a dinky toy Canon waterproof camera in one hand, meaning that I had only one hand on the paddle. This was quite often an interesting position to be in; but lots of FUN…. Ian

Ian                                                                        Steve
ian smurf crop (2)

king

The “Seal of Approval”

Another 38°C (100° F) day was forecast, just rounding out another week of heat. So what to do today ?. The last week had seen strong, hot winds blowing across the Adelaide Plains but today was different. NO wind or just a gentle breeze perhaps, so it was load up the kayak and hit the water.

And indeed there was NO wind or maybe just a wisp of a breeze, hardly enough to evaporate the sweat from the brow but perfect conditions combined with an extremely low tide to do a little exploring. The sky was overcast, covered with tropical layers swirling from the north. The horizon blended into the sky making an eerie landscape and the cliffs stood dark and quiet.

The water was crystal clear and you could easily pick out the bottom at 6 metres.

Crystal clear water

Crystal clear water

Clear water and steep cliffs

Clear water and steep cliffs

We explored a little along the rugged coastline.

Michael drifting along

Michael drifting along

Shaun exploring a small crevice

Shaun exploring a small crevice

This way is a bit squeezy in a Seaward Passat Double kayak

This entrance is a bit squeezy in a Seaward Passat Double kayak… but we manage

Steve in close inspection

Steve in close inspection

Shauna tries not to scratch the new kayak

Shauna tries not to scratch the new kayak

Whats around the corner ?

Whats around the corner ?

Clear waters

Clear waters

We drifted along a little, with no plans to be anywhere at any particular time.

Just floating

Just floating

The photographer

The photographer

….and we were not the only ones enjoying the day.

New Zealand Fur seals enjoying the calm waters

New Zealand Fur seals enjoying the calm waters

 

We are not alone. Three other kayaks also enjoying the day.

We are not alone. Three other kayaks also enjoying the day.

We got ourselves in a few tight places with the slightest of swells gently moving the kayaks in and out of rock crevices.

Shaun again and the crevices are getting smaller

Shaun again and the crevices are getting smaller

It was a great day on the water.

Calm waters

Calm waters

We just needed one more thing..and there he was ..the kayakers “Seal of Approval”.

The "Seal of Approval"

The “Seal of Approval”

 

Photos by Ian and Shauna

ian smurf crop (2)stick shauna

 

 

 

 

Kayak drifting by
Shaun                                 Steve                 Michael                     Robyn

jim2kingYogi bearRobyn

The Blowhole

Sea kayak Day Paddle – Cape Jervis to Blowhole Beach.  Actually there isn’t really a blowhole there, not like the type we normally think of where towering waves crash onto a rocky coastline sending plumes of spray skywards. This is Blowhole Creek  in the Deep Creek National Park and one of the picturesque beaches along this very rugged coastline. I have been visiting this beach for the last 40 years and the only thing that has changes is that you can now access it via a 4WD track from within the National Park. In the old days it was a rocky walk down a rough track or straight down the fence line on Cobblers Hill.

This area has a tidal stream of up to 3 knots as water empties and refills the Gulf St Vincent so all paddling needs to be planned with the tides.  My many years experience paddling this coast have also taught me to be very cautious of forecasts and take more notice of the conditions at the time as well my own observations.

The weather forecast a couple of days out had been for smooth seas and light winds so we planned a trip along the coast from Cape Jervis to Blowhole Creek and return. We gathered 5 local paddlers together with the idea of exploring the rocky coastline up close, if the weather forecast was correct.

The "5 fine young men" ready for action

The 5 “fine young men” ready for action

Arriving at Cape Jervis we found that the Backstairs Passage between the mainland and Kangaroo Island was just starting to have white caps on the horizon, stirred up by a Sou’Easterly breeze. Great….another day of headwinds and certainly not what we had hoped for but inshore it would be much calmer.

We got organised and waited in the shelter of the marina for the Kangaroo Island ferry to leave.

Waiting for the KI ferry to leave

Waiting for the KI ferry to leave

Then we plodded off into the increasing gusts.

Michael and Steve

Michael and Steve

Of course there is a shipping lane in Backstairs Passage so you need to keep a wary eye on the horizon.

The Ferry and Container ship crossing paths

The Ferry and Container ship crossing paths

Sean and Michael in the protected waters

Sean and Michael in the protected waters

Heading out of the protection of Cape Jervis. Kangaroo Island in the distance.

Heading out of the protection of Cape Jervis. Kangaroo Island in the distance.

Looking at my GPS I thought “ Hey this was supposed to be an easy paddle riding the ebb tide, but we are only making 5km/hr in the strengthening wind. We decided to stay close inshore and use the headlands for protection from the breeze.

Paddling close inshore to avoid the winds.

Ian showing the way.

We reached Lands End and passed close in at Whites Beach where the underwater power cable goes to Kangaroo Island.

Staying in close

Staying in close

We soon arrived at the more interesting section of the paddle, where the steep cliffs fall straight into the water.

Clear water and shelter from the wind

Clear water and shelter from the wind

This allowed us to get up close and personal with the rocks and swell. As usual Steve was found bobbing around among the rocks.

Steve inspects another crevice

Steve inspects another crevice

Rugged coastline

Rugged coastline

Inspecting the rocky coastline

Inspecting the rocky coastline

We “played” our way along the coast to Naiko inlet which is a small inlet with sandy beach. There we spotted the first signs of life for the trip. Maybe Alien life was a better description as we spotted a spaceship landed among the native bush.

Signs of life on the hill

Signs of life on the hill

A closer view of the landing spot

A closer view of the landing spot

Soon Cobblers Hill was in sight with Blowhole Beach just around the headland. We could see bushwalkers on the Heysen Trail which runs 1200 km from Victor Harbor to Parachilna Gorge in the northern Flinders Ranges.

One more headland to go

One more headland to go

A landing through small surf got us onto the pristine beach for lunch.

Blowhole Beach

Blowhole Beach

Rodney surprised with a bowl of fresh strawberries, cherries and grapes to share. Who said he’s disorganised ??

The lunch spot

The lunch spot

Looking SW

Looking SW

Looking towards Kangaroo Island

Looking towards Kangaroo Island

Then back on the water through a small surf we found that the wind had abated slightly but still gave us an easy ride home as we picked up the start of the flood tide.

Steve on the way out

Steve on the way out

Again we played around in  some rock gardens resulting in me high and dry on rocks. (sorry no photos !!)

Having fun

Having fun

Among the rocks again

Among the rocks again

Checking out a small ravine

Checking out a small ravine

Many years ago some intrepid fisherman built a “get away” on the headland which is now complete with TV antenna. Unfortunately you can see that the “room with a view” has lost its’ door to a recent gale and now resides at the bottom of the cliff. Still your hardly likely to get too many interruptions here.

Room for one

Room for one

We arrived back at Cape Jervis just in time to see the Kangaroo Island ferry heading out for Penneshaw. A great way to spend a day on this mainly deserted coastline with a pristine beach lunch stop.

Arriving at the Cape as the ferry departs

Arriving at the Cape as the ferry departs

This is an excellent place for exciting paddling especially as the swell and associated clapatis increases. It should only be paddled by those with the appropriate sea skills and of course a properly fitted out sea kayak.

Happy Paddling
Ian Pope

blowhole (2)

 

Starting point. Cape Jervis
Distance. 18km return
Hazards. This area is subject to a tidal stream of up to 3 knots so paddlers must take this into account on all trips. Note that South Australia has “dodge tides” and more information is available from the Bureau of Meteorology website (bom.gov.au). There are many reefy/rocky areas along the coast as well as the possibility of large breaking waves with the predominant swell being from the SW. There are limited landing spots along this coast even in good conditions. Take care and seek local knowledge.

Chart AUS 780

Paddlers and Photographers Ian, Shaun, Steve, Michael and Rodney

ian smurf crop (2)

jim2 king Yogi bear Sir Rodney Hubert Biggs