I’m cold. The water is freezing. My head aches and my ears are hurting. The SW wind has sprung up and the balmy 10° C morning now feels like 5° C. I’m wearing every bit of rubber I own, wetsuit rubber I’m talking about, and the layers are not enough. I start to shiver and decide the next wave will be my last for the day.
The previous wave jacked up vertical with the dropping tide and increased wind. I went vertical as well, straight down the wave face and out of control. My attempt at a saving big bottom turn on the biggest wave of the day failed and I was smashed then dragged upside down. The only upside is I now have very clean sinuses.
It’s just us and a crazy dog braving the ocean today.
It started to rain but at least we had a nice rainbow above us.
I picked a small wave and headed in knowing that I still had to get through the savage shorebreak and undertow.
Steve was following me and took a pounding in the shallows.
The trick is to paddle as far as possible then jump out. Quickly drag your kayak whilst fighting the undertow that wants to knock you over and roll you around in 20cm of water and swirling sand.
I managed a sort of graceful exit and watched Steve trying to look graceful as he staggered onto the beach.
He looked a little lopsided. Oh dear!! Cinderella has lost a slipper but not his thermal sock. Yep that undertow can be powerful.
Sometimes there was a lull in the wave action and it was easy to break out.
Out the back you get to pick one of the nicer looking waves.
We climbed the 56 stairs to the car as some warmth returned and reflected on another day in COVID lockdown. Here we are doing great with no infections for 12 days, but other states are not so good. You notice that people on the beach keep their distance, not only because of COVID, but straying close to a couple of loony paddlers is to be avoided.