Shore Break: Definition
Waves that break very close to the beach. Usually more powerful and steeper than a normal beach break because the waves shoal and break quickly due to the fast transition from deep to shallow water.
Sometimes you have to work hard for your thrills. Getting an adrenaline rush from surfing your kayak down a steep green face has to be earned and that often means paddling the “Shore Break” to make it to the outer wave.
I peered over the railing to see some nice wave sets barreling in towards the shore. A great day for a couple of old salty dogs to get in a little exercise and maybe a few thrills in the surf. Out the back there was large rideable waves, but first we would have to paddle the “Shore Break”. Today it was thumping into only 40cm of water on the sandbar and was just waiting to crush any mistakes; grinding you into the sand as well as flushing through every orifice.
I geared up and sat in the shallows waiting for a lull. There was often 3 sets of dumping waves to get through before heading out further for clean waves. You keep telling yourself that they don’t look that bad, but you know even a small shore break wave can knock the wind out of you, and being dragged along upside down is never fun.
I saw a lull in the wave action and charge outwards. The first wave smashed on my lap and I was suddenly surfing back to where I started. Your mind is concentrated on the task at hand and little else, except maybe the location of the nearest hospital.
I saw Steve charging the next set of waves. He got through the first line of waves easily …..
…..and was buried by the next. Remarkably he just popped to the surface upright.
But the next one gave him a good thumping and a long drag towards shore, where he eventually rolled back up.
Meanwhile I made another charge out, only to end up back in the shallows again, and not upright.
Eventually we made it through the shore break and were able a enjoy some fast and furious rides on the outer break. We were on the edge of camera range so not a lot of photos but here’s a good one.
With energy levels dwindling and smiles on our faces we then had to time our run towards shore.
Another great paddle to remind us that it’s great to be alive. Of course we practiced social distancing both on and off the water.
Ian, Robyn and Steve