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Glamping the Lavender Bike Trail

Another blast of wind hit, almost stopping me in my tracks. This wasn’t fair, I’m going down hill on a graded dirt road and I’m struggling to keep a constant speed. I picked up speed again and was whacked again by a side blast that pushed me across the road and into the shrubbery. Robyn was slightly ahead of me and fared worse, being smaller, and was off the bike.

The day’s ride had started with a warning of gale force winds about the coast but being inland we figured it would just get a little windy and we would be able to get protection in the valleys, even if the hilltops were gusty.

Even the Corellas had found the trees too windy and opted for safe ground

We approached the Old Rockleigh School House and sought shelter for a food break. I knew that the wind would only get worse and hoped we could make our way to Mt Pleasant without any more incidents.

The Old Rockleigh School House now a campsite on the trail

On the road again, I lost count of the number of times we were pushed sideways across the road or had to brake to save us from another visit to the trees that lined the route. Tree debris was all around, just waiting to catch a derailleur and I also took timber on the helmet. Just to make things harder, rain drops started to splatter on my glasses. Nice day for a ride.

We had been in Western Australia for 6 weeks, where it rained almost continually on the Muda Biddi Bike Trail, making it impossible to make any good riding days. The areas that weren’t a foot deep in mud were a foot deep in running water. So we opted for a glamping trip to the Lavender Cycling Trail in South Australia, a trail that runs 300km from Murray Bridge to Clare. Glamping meant using our caravan as a base and riding out and back day loops to cover the 600km needed .

The riding was challenging due to the weather but certainly rewarding. There were so many interesting and unusual sights as we looped from South to North.

So what’s this tiny house doing set on the hill ?

Yes it’s a model house but why, what for ?

Look at the next photo to get it in perspective.

Yep it’s a jumping course for ponies.

I was impressed by the number of churches we passed, most being still in use and well cared for. This was an area settled by followers of the Lutheran Church as well as many other Christian religions. Sadly many of the towns they lived in have disappeared.

Sitting on the crossroads
No ones been through that gate for a while
Freshly mown grass and look at the size of that bench seat. Maybe that was the old “Smokers Corner”
Another well cared for exhibit

Not only were there places of worship for the living but also places to house the dead. The Shannon Family Mausoleum on a hill above the town of Moculta has 24 residents with room for up to 80. Oddly enough this place of the dead was the only place we saw another rider on the trail. They were heading over the next hill as we approached and we never saw them again.

The Shannon Family Mausoleum. Resting place where the last person took up residence in 1962

Apart from the old buildings, quaint villages and churches there was some great landscapes to admire. We travelled on typical Australian dirt roads and saw some iconic spots.

I think every cyclist on the trail has this photo
I was captivated by the tree and granite boulders
Dirt roads and gum trees. Some of my favourite things.

We had made it to the town of Eudunda where the loop to Inspiration Point starts. Yep, it was still raining and predicted to get heavier. We rugged up with every bit of warm clothes we had and charged on.

Lunch amongst the Cactus

We had to make a few route changes due to the mud. Cyclists know it as the Mawson Mud as it famous on the 800km Mawson Bike Trail. It comes in two colours. Black oozing mud that squelches under your tyres, splattering everywhere and red that simply clags up your wheels, chains, derailleurs and you, making movement impossible.

We tried this road but eventually had to back track
We knew we were heading into red mud country

Re-routes were interesting. This one being because the normally dry creek crossing was anything but dry. It was also going to be the course for a car rally in a few days. Good luck with that !

It always pays to carry your reading glasses. Yep, remember that in future.

Then the rains really hit us. We had passed the highest point of the ride and had only to coast into Clare but with pouring rain we decided to cut the ride short. We had ridden the last section before and knew the red dirt roads would be impassable with the only re-route being onto busier roads, so we called it a day and headed home.

A great ride in interesting country. In winter it’s a sea of green and in summer a scorched earth under a blazing sun. Ride it whenever you can and experience the landscape.

WE LIKED
Green pastures
Cloudy brooding skies
Kangaroos bounding along side us
Large flocks of birds
Wombats in their burrows
Stone buildings of all shapes and sizes

WE HATED
The wind

The Lavender Cycling Trail has it’s own website with lots of articles and planned routes as well as a Ride With GPS download of the trail.

BTW. Mud Sweat and Gears is a group of distinguished riders that raise money for the WestCare homeless shelter in Adelaide.

Happy Riding
Ian and Robyn.

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GREAT OCEANTRAIL – ESPERANCE W.A.

It’s not a kayaking day today, nor was there anyone crazy enough to brave the ocean with a windsurfer or kite. Last night a deep low front from the south collided with a low from the west right over the Great Australian Bight, which just happens to be where we are. The winds were ferocious, battering the coast and making for a wild night camped on the foreshore.

As the rain abated we decided on a bike ride along the Great Ocean Trail which follows the coastline around the port of Esperance. Rainwear and warm clothes donned we set off along the coastal paved path which weaves along the town area towards the harbour.

The path climbs out of the harbor and onto the protective cliffs and that’s about the time that the first rain squall hit. Well, we were prepared for rain but hopefully not for the whole 30km loop. Thankfully we saw some blue sky breaks coming which would allow the camera to come out.

We did the tourist thing and stopped at all the beaches to take a few snaps.

Most beaches were just a swirling mess of white water

The area has stunning seascapes and we often stopped to admire the power of the ocean and to take shelter from another rain squall.

According to the tourist sign this is a nice swimming beach. Well maybe on another day.
An interesting rock formation that would be worth investigating by kayak
LOOKOUT. Well yes we did. Looking out onto the surrounding islands
A great view from the LOOKOUT

The path follows along the cliff face, dropping down to various beaches allowing easy access on a better day. We reached Twilight Beach where we headed inland on the trail. The track is paved all the way following the contours of the coastline so it’s up and down , left and right and very seldom flat. This would make a great training loop for the gravel racers of the area.

Heading inland

The track heads inland through dense bushland again following the contours of the landscape.

Last view of the coast

We had a last view of the coast before descending into the inland gullies that weaved their way across the peninsula. The track suddenly pops out onto a main road where you have a dedicated road shoulder to follow back to town. As you might have guessed we found a nice coffee spot on the foreshore (Coffee Cat) where we ordered hot strong latte and that’s exactly what we got, along with a clearing blue sky. 30km of winding path with lots of short sharp climbs and very few flat parts until near the end makes this a great morning ride.

The forecast is not good for any water activities but I’m sure the bikes will get a workout and we will do enough exercise to counter the coffee, cakes, beer and other calories consumed.

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Bumper Boats

Bumper Boats, Dodgem Cars and the Ghost Train were my favourite rides as a kid. Whenever there was a show or fair in town I was there looking for excitement and spending my money on rides, hot dogs and fairy floss. As I got a little older I still rode the Bumper Boats but often got kicked off for “rough play” and my fascination with the Ghost Train drifted towards the scantily clad girls on the high trapeze.

Times change but somethings stay the same. Hot Dogs were out and Falafel Rolls are in, and the Ghost Train is no longer scary, but I still get that Bumper Boat feeling every time I hit the surf.

The wind had dropped and the offshore wave recorder showed some activity, although the glassy waves were not as large as we hoped, but still provided some Monday Bumper Boat action.

Steve (R) gives Ian a little BUMP
Waiting for the next wave set
Charles looks like he’s lining up for a BUMP
Steve (R) chases for another BUMP
Turtle takes a clean wave to stay out of trouble
Steve showing his style on a small wave
Charles looking for a victim perhaps
You can see Steve but can you spot someone else
Here comes Steve again
Ok. Who is giving way first ?
Steve capsizes and it looks like everyone heads in for a BUMP
Turtle staying out of trouble again
…and enjoying another clean wave
So we all headed shoreward to finish off a great morning paddle.

It was a beautiful morning with a nice mob of paddlers and bound to be repeated soon.

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100km Solo kayak paddle (almost)

The wind seemed to have increased again or was it my imagination, or just fatigue. I could see another green wave building on my right side and sure enough it broke over my head and washed me 20 metres sideways, whilst I held a desperate support stroke. Was that the 10th or 12th time that had happened, I decided to stop counting. I was out here alone and this was supposed to be fun or at least character building.

The day had started with an ominous covering of grey cloud and the wind hovering above 15knots. I reasoned that I would have a 7km paddle across the open bay paddling parallel to the created swell. It sort of worked that way, except I way pushed in an arc by the wind and current. It took 1.5 hours to reach the next headland where I was to change direction and pick up a quartering tail wind and flooding tide. Unfortunately, the wind switched more to the East, making it from my side again and even worse a slight headwind. A couple of dolphins dropped in for a chat and stayed a while but tired of my slow pace they zapped off ahead.

Only another 15km or so of this I thought and it probably won’t get worse; but of course it did. The 14km run along the coast was bordered by 7km of remote sandy beach and 7km of rocky cliffs. The beach section was bad enough, with steep cresting waves but the cliffs sent rebounding clapatis waves back towards me, so the kayak was constantly in motion, up, down and sometimes forward as I executed about 2 gazillion support strokes. Absolutely no chance of photos today.

Rounding a small headland I spotted Lipson Island from the crest of a wave and gauged it to be 3 km away. Knowing sanctuary awaited I increased my stroke rate, concentrated on technique and forward power. With the tide in full flood I could slip through the channel between the beach and island where Robyn was meeting me and with a little lucky maneuvering I missed all of the reef and landed on white sand.

Paddling solo was something I hadn’t done for many years as there had always been lots of fellow paddlers. However, this time they had other commitments or maybe better judgement. It certainly sharpens the senses and gives you time to think about what the hell you’re doing out here while everyone else is enjoying coffee and conversation in a café.

The paddle had started well, leaving Port Lincoln on Spencer Gulf, with a modest tail wind and a 12km crossing past Boston Island. A bit of a sloppy ride but a nice day “on the paddle” passing the shipping channel used by large grain carriers and skirting the fish farms anchored in the bay. The 24km was only interrupted by a pod of dolphins showing me their surfing and acrobatic skills.

Louth Island passed and soon I was cruising into the shelter of Louth Bay which was protected by the resident Osprey whom I named “Scuffy”. Again, Robyn was there on the cliff to direct me to the best landing spot.

Scruffy the guardian of Louth Bay who had been watching me from the cliff top

I had various species of gulls soar past me when off shore and when coming ashore I was always greeted by a gaggle of cormorants who took off in all directions, including straight at me.

At night the wind abated and I sat on the beach having a Skype call with friends Matt and Katrin in Germany, whilst enjoying a well-earned beer. I watched the moon rise reflected on the now calm water and hoped for calm winds in the morning. I promised them a photo of the moonrise so here they are.

Moonrise over the channel entrance

The next morning my prayers were answered with a slight tail wind and smooth-ish seas so the kayak sail was deployed for a lovely 3 hour paddle into Tumby Bay township.

A great kayak sailing day

Whilst I was on the water Robyn was investigating the coastal walking trails and photo opportunities. She captured some of the rock formations along the coast.

Pied Cormorants resting on the rocky outcrops
There are few places to land on this section of coastline

She had also become a regular at the Tumby Bay bakery. Robyn and her friend Ann were delighted to enjoy a coffee with holidaying celebrity Mr Billy Connelly and even had their photo taken to prove it.

Everyone visits the Tumby Bay Bakery

I had a great experience, although the increasing wind meant that I didn’t reach my 100km solo paddling goal, but I came across some new paddlers. I met Peter in Tumby Bay who is starting his experimentation with a Greenland style paddle and Dave who is about to join the sea kayaking fraternity, so hopefully next time they can come along with Dennis the veteran paddler of the region.

Paddling Solo. A great experience that sharpens the senses. The feeling of being alone is daunting when you are in a challenging environment but the joy of knowing that you were the only person to chat with that dolphin, watch that bird soaring above or yell at the bloody wind is sort of special.

Solo also means careful preparation. Check, recheck and check again all your gear and navigation. Have confidence in your own ability and above all remember it’s fun, even when it isn’t .

Cheers
Ian and Robyn.

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Silent Night

Silent night, holy night!
All is calm, all is bright.

It was almost Silent as we left the growl of the metropolis behind. The wind was a calming whisper as we glided into the darkness. The sound of water gently slapping the kayak and the occasional splash of the paddle were all the sounds we wanted to hear.

Leaving the rest behind

It was Calm. The wind stilled and the ocean surface took on a mirrored finish.

All behind us was Bright. We had left behind the lights of population soon after launching. It was paddling into the darkness with no moon in sight.

Occasionally the wind would surprise us with a cooling gust, making us increase our paddling tempo, then drop away just as fast as it came.

With those eyes he makes a great Vampire

Time and distance fade away as you focus on other things; the rhythm of the paddle, the rocking of the kayak, the joy of being away from the heat and noise of “the others”.

All good things must come to and end and we returned to reality heading inshore, where we greeted the last night walkers on the jetty, saw the Xmas lights still glowing and heard the muted sounds of the late night party goers.

We glided along, not knowing that we were on top of reefs and rocky sections until the camera flash showed us the shallows. Luckily no waves across the headlands tonight.

Hmm…that is shallow
The last night walkers
Xmas lights still burning

We had heard splashes on the water but saw nothing. Probably just sea birds settling for the night. We hoped to hear the puffing of the local dolphin pod but they were elsewhere. We did not want to see or hear (of feel) Mr Chompy who had been seen patrolling the reef during the day. ( Mr Chompy was a guest blogger here some time ago- follow the link to see his blog).

I suspect some of you have noted that I missed out the Holy. That’s because I had originally planned to paddle Xmas eve, however, the wind played havoc with those plans.

Happy New Year. Let’s put 2021 behind us.

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It’s almost Summer

The Witches Wind has been blowing relentlessly for weeks. The Witches reside in the East and blow across the Peninsula reeking havoc on the sea swell. At the bottom of the Peninsula they sweep across the swell making it choppy and confused and further up the Gulf they blow strong from the land, flattening any waves.

The Witches are not good for sea kayakers, causing a confused, often angry sea and certainly no good for surf kayakers chasing a wave.

The weather forecast came in. East winds below 10 knots and a small clean surf on the local beach. ACTION STATIONS. Load up my new Jackson Kayak Rockstar playboat and get there. Steve (King of England) was also on it. The swell was small but the water was crystal clear and warm enough to entice a number of rolls and other frivolity.

There were a few small peelers to be had.

Mr King having fun

I saw a flash of white break the surface nearby but luckily it was just a swimmer out for the first sunny day. No tan and lots of white flesh. Steve had a lunch appointment so he called it a day.

Then to prove it was “Almost Summer” I heard the “wump wump wump” of a helicopter overhead and the wail of a siren. Yep, you guessed it Shark Alert.

Public #SharkReport: SA – NEAR OCHRE POINT AT MOANA BEACH . 10:30, 28 Nov 21, 4m, White Shark, Aerial Survelliance → Report to Shark Watch. Helicopter pilot has seen a large 4 – 5m White Shark very close to shore (between 10 – 20m offshore) while flying over Moana Beach near Ochre Point. The Shark was seen close to surfers and it’s movement could not be established.

Oh well it made for a nice finish to the session, sitting on the beach, drinking coffee and watching everyone called to action stations. It’s almost Summer.

Happy Paddling and stay safe.