We had been on the bike for nearly two hours along a corrugated rocky road. I don’t know why but a classic Spaghetti Western soundtrack, The Good the Bad and the Ugly, had been going around in my head. Maybe it suited the landscape all around or was I expecting Clint Eastwood to step onto the road, or was it just another guitar piece I needed to learn.

We were approaching Hammond in the Flinders Ranges a place long lost.

As we crested the last rise  I thought I could hear the slow drawl of organ music. Strange indeed as the most probable place to find an organ was at the Hammond Catholic Church, but it was boarded up some 20 years ago.

We rested on an old church seat and surveyed the town. A main street with intact buildings and a grid of streets around it with ruins. Down the street was a Bank of Adelaide building and next to it a general store. We had a wander past them whilst lunching.

The street is wide and open probably to allow horse or bullock drays to turn around.

That tune came again as I wandered towards the old Hotel. What a place this would have been in the past with the street full of people and industry and Hotel full of rowdy customers.

I heard a voice call out in the distance and the banging of a door but on turning there was no one there. I was sure I could hear the clink of glasses and smell a fine beer but nothing and no one moved but me. This is indeed a strange place.

The day had started at Carrieton some 26km to the east where we had camped at the old School. A great place to rest, relax and chat with the locals.

Not a lot happens in Carrieton, at least not whilst we were there. There is a small shop that opens in the mornings for general supplies and a Pub that is under renovation and threatening to open.

I was intrigued by this old building with its leadlight glass above the door. It’s interior has collapsed but the stone walls stand firm.

It even has bike hire available.

Long ago the Catholic Church was prominent on the hill with its’ imposing gateway. You pass the grave of Rev. Richard Doyle the first Pastor of the church upon entry.

The road out is corrugated in patches and has its’ share of fist size rocks strewn about.  The main attraction in the town is the annual Rodeo and Campdraft in March. We passed the Campdraft arena which shows a novel use for old tyres as fencing.

The weather was overcast, with forecast thunderstorms and we paused to study the sky ahead.

As is normal for this country we had several kangaroos bound along next to us before diving across the road only metres in front of us. At a creek crossing we disturbed a large Wedge Tailed Eagle enjoying a late breakfast, who nearly collided with us on takeoff. There was the usual assortment of Galahs and Corellas in the big gum trees and a few sheep wandering the paddocks. Luckily it was too cold for snakes.

An interesting 52km ride across some stunning landscape, racing ahead of the approaching rain. We made it back to Carrieton camp safe and dry and enjoyed a celebratory beverage by the roaring fire.

It had been a great ride to a strange place, one that I won’t be visiting in the dark.